INSTEAD OF BKT OR JAPANESE STRAIGHTENER

Is true there is a new product brewing in Brazil, faster, easier and without the harsh toxic chemicals. As soon as I get a list of ingredients I will be informing everyone. Distribution is right now next to none in USA and the Caribbean.

BEAUTY INDUSTRY TOXICS?

I just came from the San Juan Beauty show, Which by the way is not much different than the IBS in New York. I find it to be overly priced, instead of a significant emotional experience is an abuse to the Puertorican market. The "Nanokeratin", "Brazilian Keratin Treatment" and the "Nanoqueratina del Caribe" had a fierce competition. One... offering to exchange equipment with the salon promising to buy at least every two months the supply for the treatment. The Other selling the one box of six treatments at $250.00. The complete system at $900.00 with compressor and one box of treatment. Now If I was to buy this product I would have to inflate the price of service to $120.00 for a short hair client. Someone with shoulder length is looking at $280.00 and up. Now... what they all failed to inform the Professionals purchasing these systems is if a client has a chemical service such as color on a monthly basis the treatment will deactivate! Or shampoo's with SODIUM CHLORIDE will also strip the keratin from the strand of hair! Try finding a shampoo without this ingredient in it.

This occurs with all of the Keratin treatments, regardless of brand. Some "Formaldehyde Free" Brazilian Keratin Treatment contains 2% Ether!, which is an anesthetic with side effects such as nausea and lung irritation. Now, I did purchased the nanokeratin treatment by "Tanagra"www.tangra.com.br I like it so far... but still take caution by wearing a mask, Then again I do the same when I use my airbrush tanning solution. Let's face it all of the chemicals in our industry will eventually cause some trauma to our lungs we are the ones more exposed to these vapors. A client might be exposed to it temporarily but we are there day in day out.
Till next time.

INDUSTRY ARTISTS

The industry has an Artist in every corner of the planet. This was created by the team ay JCPenney Caguas Puerto Rico.
Licensed Cosmetologists:

Noemi, Eva, David, Marta, Matthew, Noemi, Linda, Marylyn, Norma, Cynthia.

INSPIRATIONAL HAIR

The Brazilian keratin treatment vs straighterner

I have located so many articles that talked about the BKT being the same as the relaxer... well it's not. The relaxer is a Japanese Straightener that will last up to four months and no blow dryer will be needed for smooth results. The Brazilian treatment only last until your next chemical service. It WILL NOT relax your hair. BKT is a repairing service, which has a lot of people convinced that it's a relaxer including the industry experts. But upon interviewing the manufactures I found out the following. It does make very chemically stressed hair 100% smoother. It can be done on all types or hair. How ever a monthly chemical service such as a color service does deactivate the BKT. I have answered a lot of questions about the BKT not doing what the stylist claimed it would do for clients. If the hair has been previously relaxed, Japanese straightened, or chemically damage the hair will appear 100% in better condition than you would see on a natural head of hair. This is due to the dramatic contrast of the damaged cuticle in comparison with non chemically treated hair. Why is it that the Japanese Straightener had such negative results for so many? because... upon retouching the relaxer the proper precautions where ignored by many a technician. For example overlapping of the creme is almost inevitable because it had to be applied five to six months latter (that is about 5 inches of regrowth) you see... this is called over processing when a chemical touches the hair again. Applying products like "blockers" (used a lot by master colorist to protect hair that has been previously lighten), creating that very needed barrier so no OVER PROCCESSING occurs. This SUPER IMPORTANT step was skipped 99.9% of the time which as a result caused the hair to brake at the 5 inch mark where it had just been retouched. I've had success after success with the "Thermal Straighteners" & "Japanese Straighteners" just using a little common sense.The Brazilian is a huge breath of fresh air for all of us and our clients. Because we can now have answers for those whom have suffer the neglect from technicians in la.la land.

Where it all happens

My industry, is so exiting, invigorating, competitive and art filled. The people who create the haircuts, the colorist that gets inspired by a birds feather and the make-up artist that interprets shapes and shades of a face. These are some of the most amazing artists I've have ever had the pleasure of crossing paths with. I have been so fortunate to have worked and trained with a variety of them. A true stylist/cosmetologist "aka" image enhancer is the one, that when sharing a meal grabs your (off white) napkin and looks outside to spot a UPS truck and says "there"... is the (chocolate brown) that will go great with these highlights as she/he waves the napkins in front of you. Ever though of how they come up with the hairstyles for a runway show? and how is it that the make-up artist raps it all up with eyes and lips the perfect color. The artist knows what the other artist sees in an artist mind. Beauty is art and the art of it all is where it all happens.

Testimonial on the Keratin treatment

Brazilian keratin treatments promise sleek, healthy locks

THE NEW YORK TIMES NEWS SERVICE
August 28, 2007 - 10:58PM
After 14 years of relentless highlighting, bleaching and chemical straightening, Deborah Epstein, 32, a law student from Forest Hills, Queens, New York City, had ruined her unruly brown curls. Dull, brittle and difficult to style, her hair was so fragile a ponytail holder could snap it off. Moreover, all it took was a molecule of moisture and her hair frizzed. And no amount of expensive products, deep-conditioning treatments and weekly salon blowouts could tame her mane. But in April, Epstein tried the Brazilian Keratin Treatment at the nuBest Salon and Spa in Manhasset, N.Y. The results were so spectacular, she wept. “I got very emotional,” she said. “It was mind-boggling how beautiful my hair looked: straight, shiny, sleek and more important, healthy. I have no products in my life now. I wash my hair, air-dry it and then the last 10 minutes, I blow it and it’s pin-straight.” Such a gushing testimonial is not unusual, stylists say. “For a woman who had a thorn bush for hair and now it’s like silk, well, we’re talking revolution,” said Mark Garrison, who offers the treatment at his salon in New York. Originating in Brazil, the treatment has become widely available here only in the last six months. While it appears that no major American hair or beauty companies are now selling it, a cottage industry of hairdressers has emerged, importing the product from Brazil or creating their own formulations. So far, the brands include Brazilian Keratin Treatment, Brazilian Hair Straightening and Brazilian Blowout. “Right now, it’s blowing everything away,” said Meryle Nemeth, the nuBest stylist who administered Epstein’s treatment, one of about 500 she’s done since February, when it became available at the salon. “I’ve never seen anything take off like this as far as relaxing hair. Everyone wants it for summer, for affairs, for weddings. I’m talking all ages, 12-year-olds to 70-year-olds.” Sarah Brown, the beauty editor of Vogue, said the treatment is perfect for those with tumbleweed hair who are trying to simplify their lives. “For people who can’t master a salon blowout at home or go get a weekly blowout, a treatment like this is seriously liberating,” she said. Technically, it is neither a relaxer nor a straightener, both of which use caustic chemicals to change the texture of the hair. The Brazilian can be used on most hair types, even the previously color treated, without causing harm, proponents say. Treatment takes 1 ½ to 4 hours, and costs $150 to $600, depending on the length and thickness of the hair (Colorado salons cited prices ranging from $150 to $200). A stylist applies a solution made with active keratin, a protein akin to a component of human hair. Using a 450-degree iron, the hairdresser seals the formula onto the outer layer of the cuticle. The formula adheres to the cuticle’s inherently rough edges. Thus, it is said, it traps moisture, hydrating the hair, and adds a glossy veneer. The results last six weeks to a few months, depending upon how frequently the hair is washed. There are risks. There’s the hot iron. And the formula often contains formaldehyde, a known carcinogen that can irritate the eyes and lungs if the fumes are inhaled. Go to www.brazilian keratin.com or www.brazil ianhairstraightening.com to find a salon. Uncurliness comes with a caveat. Emily Dougherty, beauty editor at Elle, warned: “You need to do due diligence and challenge your stylist. Ask questions about where this chemical cocktail is coming from.” Only two Colorado salons currently offer Brazilian hair straightening, according to the two Web sites mentioned in the story: I. Cappelli Salon in Parker (1-303-773-3315) and Salon Belvedere in Denver (1-720-904-0330).



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Micro Links Extensions

This technique is great for many reasons. One, you can re-use the hair (if done right), Two, they hang on quite well for up-to four months. Three, it is a lot cleaner to remove than keratin. Like anything else in our industry beware of copycats. Euro Locs & Lord and cliff, are my favorites because of quality. Not only do you need to be aware of the hair but the cylinders ass well. I've purchased and tested (just cause) some online doodle from different websites and boy am I not surprised. How ever the technique has it's science one of these is there has to be enough hair through the tube or the extensions will slide eight out on the first brushing. The problem most commonly found is the "crinkle" effect it leaves behind after removal. The do tangle something fears when not properly maintained. Now a days however there is a new concept that seems to work well and that is keratin "cushed" tubes. They coat the inside of the tube to avoid sliding and crinkling. Some one's been thinking.

Japanese straight Vs Nanokeratin

OK... People here it goes. The difference between getting a Japanese straightener (JS) Vs the Noncorroding (NK) treatment. The JS is a chemical that once processed properly it will dry straight and without frizz. Now if a JS is not properly process is will be a disaster. In that case the Nanokeratin treatment could be a blessing. What this treatments does, is fill the damaged cuticle with evaporated keratin and seals it with a Silicone base polish also in a vapor form. The treatment will last ONLY until your next chemical treatment, It WILL NOT act as a straightener. If not properly process it will only last you until your next shampoo. Now, The NK treatment has worked miracles for many of my clients. The more you get the treatment done the longer the results will last and your hair will respond much better under humidity. On average the treatment last about two months and unlike the JS the entire head has to be process again. The JS will last up to four months on the tightest curl I've used it on. The hair is"heavy" when straightened so it kind of tugs on the natural curl giving the illusion that is straighter than normal. Hope this clears the waters for many of you out there.

Club Vogue / Vogue Australia

Club Vogue / Vogue Australia

Braided Extensions

Hair braiding is one of the oldest methods of hair addition. In this technique a section of the hair is parted separated and parted in two. Using the additional hair as the third leg on a braid , lacing between the natural hair and continue to separate into three legs until the entire braid is done. Using this same method to get it started, a quarter of an inch from the scalp gets braided , then glued or hand tied with thread or Brazilian string. Leaving the entire extension loose results in a natural look Vs braiding it all the way to the ends. On the other hand braiding them all the way to the ends makes for no maintenance while they last. This is a great method for Afro American due to the growth pattern of the textured hair. On hair that is of looser texture as in Caucasian texture this method wont last as long. the hair tends to untangle. The longevity of this technique is about two months maximum.

Japanese Straight hair

What is the process, what to expect from your technician and what exactly is this chemical doing to your hair. Fist of all you should know that this process is NOT REVERSIBLE. Secondly your technician needs to do a thorough analyzes of your hair. Then the technician needs to perform a test strand. Why? because the longer the strand the more history there is to consider on that strand. Example: If you blow dry, flatiron, shampoo with hot water, use the wrong shampoo, wraps hair while wet, color yourself, level of peroxide, not enough elasticity, too porous, and on and on I can go. The final procedures to provide you with your straightener service is a combination of everything that applies to you. There is not one head I've process that I can honestly say it was done the same. The application on some people has been where I apply the entire head and the "baby soft" hair line is applied for only five minutes. The timing on each individual is determined my the strand testing performed every three to seven minutes starting after the first 7 minutes of processing. Most of the time the first Quad applied on the hair has to be rinsed before the last. Also this chemical or any straightener CANNOT GO ON SCALP. It will brake the hair at the scalp feeling like it's been buzzed off with a cutting razor. This can also happen if the flat iron is not 100% ceramic. I personally use CHI by farouk. (that's is just me)
OK, on we go. First a liquid to stabilize the strand and protect overly stressed areas is applied. After the application of the straightening potion is done and processed it needs to be rinsed well and blow dry up to 80% of the moisture. flat iron section by PAPER THIN section. at this point NO CLIPS, duckbills, butterfly clips, etc. Help your technician at this point by holding your hair. By the way this is that moment when you feel this was a huge mistake and you are permanently ruined, relax your hair is now receiving the order of "now you will live the rest of you life straight". After it looks fabulously straight it needs to be soaked with neutralizing solution which will now seal the deal. A restructuring treatment is then applied and finally styled. You cannot touch this hair with shampoo for a minimum of two days three is awesome. Also no clips, head bands. glasses on to of the head, or even pulled behind the ear.

Enjoy no more hassles.
Japanese straight hair.

Desrizado Japones

SUEÑAS CON UNA MELENA LISA Y UN CABELLO SEDOSO?



Cuando hablamos de químicos pensamos en pelos maltratados, quemados y hasta la palabra “chicle” la he oído mencionar.

Para obtener esa cabellera sedosa y siempre lacia sin utilizar secadores y otras herramientas y para poderlo mantener lacio en nuestro clima húmedo y seco tienes que leer este reportaje de un sistema que además de dejarte el cabello siempre lacio aunque salgas de la playa este verano te lo reestructura y le da un brillo espectacular.

En la industria hay un sin número de productos para desrizar el cabello y dejarlo mas flexible para peinar. Pero nada compara con el desrizado Japones o el thermic straightner o el hot thyoglacolate todos son básicamente la misma idea.

DESPIDETE DEL SECADOR Y EL “DUBI”


Este sistema de desrizado es un proceso de 4 o 5 horas. Se inicia limpiando el cabello y su posterior preparación con una vitamina especial que balancee el PH toda la fibra capilar. Se prosigue con la aplicación de una crema específica para alisar el cabello que se sella con unas planchas de cerámica la cual se pasa por el cabello cuando este ha sido parcialmente secado un 80% con secador.

Después de una hora y media una vez seco, se le aplica neutralizante. Tras el sellado, es el momento de tratar el cabello con un reconstructor especial indicado para reparar la cutícula. Después de todos los tratamientos e hidratantes se seca finalmente el cabello y para aquellos cabellos fuertes y abundantes es recomendable pasar la plancha una ultima vez para asegurar que la cutícula quede bien acostada y al dormir la clienta no le cree marcas al cabello.

El resultado final es un cabello liso, con una textura suave y, sobre todo, con mucho brillo. El cabello se muestra totalmente flexible, un nuevo aspecto que se mantendrá visible durante 4 o 5 meses. No obstante, para garantizar completamente estos resultados es importante que tras el trabajo en el salón de peluquería, la clienta siga las siguientes indicaciones:
- Durante dos días no se lavará ni mojará el cabello, ni colocará sobre el mismo objetos que puedan dejar marca, como gafas de sol, horquillas o, incluso, se desaconseja retirarse el cabello por detrás de la oreja.- Una vez pasados estos dos días la clienta podrá lavarse el cabello con un champú especial que aporte mayor resistencia.

Hasta la proxima,
KIDDO TORRES

Tangled extensions

Depending on what type of extension technique you are using
and the quality of hair this can be the factor of tangling.
For instance if you have keratin strand by strand and the extensions
are too close together, they tend to fuse together in a tangle mess. This happens 100% of the time because the hair is not being properly maintained(see maintaining your hair extensions bible). If the extension is tangling along the one strand. YOU are going to sleep or you're letting the extension dry by "wind blowed". I also mean when you are LAYING down at the beach or by the pool or wherever, the nape will tend to rub the extension and this friction will tangle them strand by strand. This is the biggest culprit of damage to your natural hair. See... let me explain the dynamics of hair extensions on the head so you can understand how they can get nasty. YOUR NATURAL HAIR is separated into a small section, a protective base is place at the base, then the extension is glued to that strand. We all know that we shed many strands of hair naturally daily. Well, were do you think that loose strand is going to go if is locked in to an extension? Usually the tangle nightmare starts about the beginning of the third month of wearing extensions. Because the strand that gets loosen now make a U-turn and starts to tangle the strands that are still attached. They have no place to go and decide to create havoc. Another way extensions get tangled is when the strands are place close together and a little bit of hair is left between them. This is done by the technician usually because he/she was toughed that way or they think is more comfortable. I have seen pretty bad cases of tangles with this technique. The user usually tends to ignore or not feel the tangle that snarls. If the hair quality it self is of poor condition do not use this for more that two months, and that's actually pushing the limits. Remember that the extension hair is going to loose luster and silkiness the minute it gets on your head. Noticed how it's never the "same" after the first shampoo. Using the proper products to keep tangles away can make a whole lot of difference with your extension experience. Let me give you a couple of my favorites for detangling: Matrix Spray in leave-in treatments, Pravana Leave in treatments, All detangling solutions, balsams or rinses work well on extensions. Try NOT to use oil or greasy products.  NOW... If you see a beautiful woman in a picture and you use this as a guide for your look, YOU WILL NEVER WAKE UP DONE! That means you have to make an effort and maintain the LOOK. Remember she got her hair done for that picture. The longer, bouncier and more gorgeous you want your mane the higher the maintenance is going to be. Granted hair extensions is the ONLY way you will achieve that picture perfect long lasting look. Brush, brush and brush some more, that is the real secret to no tangles.

" Japanese Straightener"

The famous "Japanese Straightener" has been a topic of many a discussion on and off line. The bottom line is that it is NOT a product. Today in the beauty industry the latest version and most used by stylists is the "thermal straightener" it is the same thing the difference is the brand of product used. Let me explain to you what makes it permanently straight . The hair is first prepared by shampooing with a clarifying shampoo to remove all impurities and oils from the strands. Then, a stabilizer or PH balance is applied through out the strands. The actual straightening product (which by the way stinks) is applied OFF THE SCALP (very important) this is the step that actually alters your hair's DNA structure. The technician should by this step be watching closely for the process to be completed and never leave you alone or on a timer to forget you for the time period the timer is set for. Every three to five minutes the strands should be checked. because the application was not and is never applied through out the whole head at the same time, the quads the hair are divided into, will process sooner than the last quad applied. Therefore it may be necessary to remove one quad at a time as they process and reach the proper texture. After the chemical is completely removed the hair is then dried with a blower removing ONLY about 80% of the moisture. The remaining 20% is evaporated with a 100% ceramic iron again OFF the scalp. If the iron is ceramic coated in my personal experience it WILL break the hair where the iron closes which is very close to the scalp. This is the part that a lot of stylists just don't get and or have no patience to complete and tend to try to cut corners. If the the hair is not properly sectioned to flat iron, the risk of breakage is higher. After the whole head is flat ironed the neutralizing formula is applied and processed. A cocktail of emollients and restructures are then applied for a length of 3 to 6 minutes. Finally is time to style and maybe flat iron one last time depending on the texture and bulk of the hair as well as the weather (on humid weather is is very recommended to flat iron on last time for a straighter result). The processed hair CANNOT be held with ponytails, headbands, glasses, clips, pins, scrunchies or pulled back behind the ears. Any of these can create a crease that cannot be corrected. After a period of about 72 hours minimum the person can shampoo and condition the hair with a hydrating system, blow dry or let dry natural. There are different strengths for the various types of hair and previously chemically treated as well. I advice to consult thoroughly with a technician prior to your service. The results can be amazing or devastating if YOU fail to screen the person properly.

Thin hair solutions

Even a beauty queen may suffer thinning hair. Miss Puerto Rico 2006, I personally took care of her extension work and let me tell you I've had to use all of my knowledge , experience and resource available to me to perform the tedious task of placing strand by tiny strand of hair to her royal highness. Using keratin sticks and a hot glue gun, I hand blend the colors while adding the strands to match her colored hair to perfection. The strands need to match your natural hair by color, texture and movement. The movement is created by the haircut given after the extensions have been placed properly. Because MPR's hair is very thin on the crown section of her head (as are many women) notice how her long "bangs" are taken from halfway into the crown area. thus creating an illusion of fullness. The section I mention before is the ONLY PART that is her own hair without the extension enhancement in it. There are so many techniques and products out there in the market that are not really for fine thinning hair. I'll mention some of these to you: Clip on hair extensions, Weaves (Otherwise known as stitched in), Brazilian knots, Glued to scalp (my... what a disaster that is) or even custom made wigs that might be stitched on or screwed in to the hair. Uh mm.. yes I said screwed in. When I first came across this technique I almost cry for the women wearing them. The damage done to the natural hair is awful. Some of these techniques are invented by someone who have never had to wear anything on their own head. The knowledge that women will do anything to enhance their appearance makes them fair game to inventors without care to the client,  except to make money off of them. Check out my articles on each technique. I've been doing the homework for you and you will be an educated consumer. I promise.

Summer tangles

Every time you head out to the beach the tanning lotion, bronzer, spf's,hair brush, glasses, even the ipod makes it in the beach bag. But we all tend to forget a little mister call detangler or leave- in treatments. Ins't this a nightmare... next thing you know your hair is a couple of inches shorter from the tangle mess it became from the salt, sand and wind. Needless to say you might have one or a couple of the the following: Hair color, straightener, perm or highlights which makes it worst and then you start detangling without anything in that hair! could it be that the cause of all you split ends? go on ahead and take it from me. Buy your little bottle of detangler or "Leave-in treatment and be gentle whe detangling.